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| Rickster69Vert | Need electrical solutions | ||
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Guru Newb
 
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Hi All,
Here is a list of things going on that I could use some input on: 1. Windshield wipers went out on my return from Carlisle last year (luckily I live 20 minutes from there). Have been trying to trace problem. Wilcox has good writeup although I don't have a wiper door (previous owner replaced engine and used longer hood). I don't think I am getting power to override switch under steering column although do I need it w/o wiper door? Also I did replace fuse just to make sure that was not the problem. 2. My passenger rear brake light is out. I replaced bulb but not working. Light that goes on when headlights are on is illuminated. I did not double check new bulb in left side to make sure it worked but I will. 3. Still have my hot start issue, slow to turn over. I have had replies to look at putting in heat shield. 4. Sometimes (maybe once a month) I go to start and nothing, almost like battery is dead. But if I try again a few minutes later, starts up. 5. Also, I notice I have to really hang on my gas after start up. If I don't continue to give it gas, it stalls. Then I sometimes have a problem getting re-started (like it is flooded). More of an inconvenience if I want to get going. Not sure if any of these might be interelated (possible short somewhere?). Not sure I can fix the problems myself either, depending on what is involved. Thanks in advance for any advice. |
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Posted on: 4/13 5:08
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| Durango_Boy | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Elite Guru
 
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I'm useless for you problem #1. Problem #2 needs more digging from you. Find out if one or both are out, if they work with brake lights or signals, or with or without the headlights. Need more variables.
#3: Check both ends of the power cable that connects the POS terminal of the batter to the starter, and check the engine ground from the block to the frame. Both of these need to be in tip top shape with great connections. Clean off any corrosion, rust, or paint. Also have the battery load tested to make sure it's even capable of the draw needed to start your engine. Finally, look into a smaller mini starter. Later model trucks came stock with the high torque mini starter. They are an advantage in every way. #4: This also goes back to #3. Check the power and ground cables. If you have a poor connection with either you can experience these problems. Possible IGN switch or linkage issues. #5: You need to have the engine professionally tuned. I used to think I could time and tune and engine properly. Yes, I can get it close, but I just don't have the equipment to do it right. Search out a shop local to you that might have an old Sun machine or something similar. These machines can read your car's IGN and timing signals like a heartbeat down to the cylinder and phase of the IGN cycle. Shops also have gas readers, 3 and 5, that can literally tell you the mixture at any RPM, speed, or load. These are all things that are needed to properly tune and time your engine. Ask questions though...don't just drop it off and expect them to do it right without finding out how they intend to tune it up. |
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Posted on: 4/13 5:32
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| Rickster69Vert | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Guru Newb
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For #2 -
I noticed passenger side rear light will illuminate if headlights are on, but break light does not go on when break is pressed (wether lighs are on or not). So I thought maybe break light filament burned out, broken, etc. So I replaced bulb. Same result. I am going to make sure contacts are good and that new bulb is good (I will test on right side which works fine). If that doesn't work I'll look at ground wires. I just need to find them all. Thanks for the input. |
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Posted on: 4/13 7:16
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| Trae1976 | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Master Guru
 
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Quote:
Check the grounds first. I had a similar issue when I installed LED bulbs, and found no ground wire to the passenger side socket. I added one, problem solved.  |
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Posted on: 4/13 7:47
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Highlight of the Week ... and it's not even a nice Vette.  My Photos Vettes of the Smokies |
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| BillH | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Senior Guru
 
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I've been in CampHill a lot since I grew up in Chambersburg.
Ditto what DB said on the starting. Have the battery load tested first. How old is it? This does sound like a ground/cable problem (if it's not the battery. The connections need cleaned anyway on a car of this vintage. Do you have a wiring diagram? The rear side lite is on the same circuit as the tail light and the opposite tail light & side light, so, they should all work when you pull the headlights on. The brake lights are on a different circuit (wire). Generally, the wiring harness will be on te left side of the car, go to the left brake light and then across to the right light. So, you need to verify that the left taillight and the brake light are working. Then you need to pull the right bulb and check both contacts ( be extremely careful that you only touch the brass contacts with a test light and not the contact and the metal side of housing, this would short and blow the fuse). If there is no juice at the brakelight contact, the problem is somewhere between that contract and the opposite light. You'll have to pull the taillight assembly and check for juice at the wire and where the wire is spilced into the left taillight harness. Thw wipers- you're going to have to do the same type of electrical tracing as the taillights. Power ay the motor with the switch on? Power at the override?etc. #5, Are you pumping the gas to keep it running or just keeping the pedal part way down? If you're pumpin, that explains the flooding and hard restart. It could be a few different things, choke setting, cold idle setting, etc. But, it does sound like it's time for a rebuild (but someone that knows carbs should look at it first). Holley carb? Good luck. |
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Posted on: 4/13 7:58
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Understeer is hitting the wall with the front of the car - Oversteer is hitting the wall with the rear of the car - - Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall - - - Torque is how far you push wall |
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| BillH | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Senior Guru
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Yea, quite possible since the wiring harness only has the hot wire in it. The grounds are usually a separate wire attached to the tail light housing. |
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Posted on: 4/13 8:00
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Understeer is hitting the wall with the front of the car - Oversteer is hitting the wall with the rear of the car - - Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall - - - Torque is how far you push wall |
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| Trae1976 | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Master Guru
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Is your car an auto or 4-speed? Occasionally mine (auto) will do something similar. I believe it is the switch on the shifter (neutral safety / back-up light switch) not quite making contact in Park, so turning the ignition does nothing. If I push the shifter up a little, or put it in neutral, it fires right up. So far, it hasn't annoyed me enough to try to adjust it. May not be your issue, but its easy enough to test.  |
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Posted on: 4/13 8:21
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Highlight of the Week ... and it's not even a nice Vette. My Photos Vettes of the Smokies |
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| Rickster69Vert | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Guru Newb
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Quote:
Mine is a 4 speed. Sometimes I think it is not having the clutch all the way in, but I can't imagine that would be the cause. My clutch is heavy as is so sometimes you have to really get on it (I hate driving any kind of parade event. Constantly on the clutch and my leg feels it). |
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Posted on: 4/13 9:05
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| Rickster69Vert | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Guru Newb
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Where is that wire grounded? Just so I know where to start looking. |
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Posted on: 4/13 9:16
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| Rickster69Vert | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Guru Newb
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Thanks. Wipers are a mystery. I thought fuse originally but not the case. I'm going to re-check power supplies. I don't have a small voltage tester so I'll pick one up and learn how to use it. |
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Posted on: 4/13 9:36
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| Matatk | Re: Need electrical solutions | ||
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Moderator
 
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Rick - regarding the bulb, make sure the socket is also clean of corrosion. That will affect the bulb working properly. A little dialetric grease should be dabbed in there, too.
As far as the starter, sounds like it could be getting heat soaked. Do you have headers? Check the grounds as indicated. You may also want to consider a remote solenoid (if you don't care about NCRS). Otherwise you can have it rebuilt and let the builder know you have headers/heat issues. They can rebuild it stronger than stock. Matthew |
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Posted on: 4/13 16:05
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_________________
 1989 Corvette...custom 383 stroker, built trans with 2400 stall. Still in the final tuning stages! |
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